7. Underlayment cuts must be done in a specific way
First, lay a piece of foam underlayment down with a panel of the laminate flooring on top and try it against the jamb of each door that will need to open it once the laminate is laid down. You may need to cut the bottom edge of the jamb, which will require laying the dovetail saw on top of the laminate and sawing the lamb level to the laminate.
6. Always use underlayment with vinyl floors
You are going to want a barrier between the laminate and the vinyl for a few reasons, but the most obvious being cushioning and insulation. Luckily, underlayment foam is super easy to cut with a utility knife and can be joined up without worrying about the aesthetics of it all. Keep the pieces together with some duct tape and you are set.
5. Mind the gaps and always wear safety goggles
Place your 1/4-inch spacers against the baseboard every two feet around the perimeter of the room to make sure the laminate can expand and contract with the change of seasons.
Put safety goggles on before making any cuts. Laminate flooring doesn’t typically splinter or shatter, however small pieces can fly off and cause damage an eye if you are not diligent about safety.
4. Only use a glue approved by the manufacturer for the laminate flooring you’re installing (and know that not all laminate flooring requires glue)
Start with the first board in place against one of the long walls of the room. Position board number one so that the tongue (the edge with the black pie on the long side is facing you. The groove then should be against the spacer. Apply glue to the tongue on the side edge of the board. Hook that slot on the edge of the second board onto the tongue and press the board into place. Wipe away excess glue. Continue on the first course of boards until you reach the other side of the room. If a full-sized board won’t fit on end, measure between the edge of the last board and the spacer against the wall, and cut a board to fit with a circular saw.